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Savoury art

If you’ve ever wondered what it is that gives foods

like ripe tomatoes, mushrooms, even vegemite the

moreish taste we can’t resist, it’s probably ‘umami’,

a savoury taste that exists naturally in these foods

and others such as cheeses, cured meats, shellfish,

even ketchup. It’s a ‘fifth taste’ beyond sweet,

sour, salty and bitter and is the inspiration behind

Chinatown restaurant Umami where chef Minh

Le, formerly of the Foraging Quail in New Farm,

is now experimenting with the flavour for a menu

of share plates that include Coal Grilled Moreton

Bay Bugs with pickled daikon, thai pesto, radish

and dehydrated bisque (


). Open Tuesday to

Sunday for dinner at Shop 2, 624 Ann Street

(enter in Duncan Street), Fortitude Valley.

To book call 3257 3300 and for details see


Mary Randles has been a familiar face front of house

at e’cco bistro where partner Philip Johnson runs

the kitchen but now she has taken the leap to open

her first solo venture, French bistro Madame Rouge.

Johnson has developed the menu with French-trained

head chef Matt Short and highlights include the classic

Poulpe (char-grilled octopus, kipflers, roast peppers,



), Tartare de Boeuf (beef tartare, lattice

potato crisp), Steak Frites (steak, hand-cut fries, green

peppercorn sauce) as well as the St Pierre (John Dory

à la meunière) and the Poitrine d’Agneau (breast of

lamb, petit pois à la française). Even cocktails have

been adapted to a French theme. French Mojito

anyone? Open for dinner six nights, lunch Friday and

Sunday only at 11b/100 McLachlan Street, Fortitude

Valley. To book call 3252 8881 and for details see


Breakfast is far from ordinary at Priory Kitchen, the

new café opened by Amy and Michael Bates at Trafalgar

Lane, Woolloongabba, and the good news is it’s on all

day. Eggs Priory with sticky baked Christmas ham,

home-made herbed muffin, poached eggs and lemon

hollandaise or Bubble & Squeak Bhajis with maple

baked bacon, smoked tomato compote, poached egg,

toasted flatbread, minted labna and cumin dukkha are

signature dishes but the fruit salad with home-made

rhubarb ice cream, crumble, chai cream and banana

bread is a treat for the taste buds. The Priory Kitchen

is open seven days for breakfast and lunch, and dinner

Thursday and Friday nights at Shop 4, 855 Stanley

Street, Woolloongabba. To book call 3162 5395 and for

details see

BNE January/February 2017 |


William Wu

Coffee Queen

Photography by Oliver Camden Black

Photography by Eric Wang

Yumi Yogawa (

pictured left

) doesn’t often have time to sit

down and have a coffee as she’s more likely to be making

them in her job at Windmill & Co, the restaurant and bar

at Brisbane Airport’s International Terminal (Level 3). Her

experience and passion for her craft paid off recently when

Yumi was judged the winner of the airport’s annual Barista

Competition by local experts Wolff Coffee Roasters. Yumi’s work

day starts at 5am each morning to meet the early-bird travellers at the

airport but she still managed to squeeze in extra practise time before the

competition. After the win we asked her to spill the beans…

1. What makes a great cup of coffee?

Well roasted coffee beans, great

machines, a passionate barista and satisfied customers.

2. How many cups of coffee do you serve a week at Windmill & Co?


than 6000.

3. What’s your favourite style of coffee to drink?

As a straight latte fan,

my current favourite coffee blend is Forza from Veneziano which is

specially made to match milk-based coffee. It is full bodied and low in

acidity, however the dark chocolate, almond and caramel flavours add a

touch of sweetness to a perfect cup of latte, flat white or cappuccino.

4. What’s the most popular coffee order at Windmill & Co?


5. Where do you most enjoy a cup of coffee on your day off?


Anthology in Margaret Street, city.

6. What’s the best snack to have with a cup of coffee?

Mini orange or

carrot cake which are not overly sweet.